On the last day of my Wonderland Trail thru-hike, I climbed out of Indian Bar up to the Cowlitz Divide and found myself staring at an actual wonderland. The peak wildflower bloom surrounded the trail near me; in the distance, the valleys and rolling hills went on for miles. Above it all, Rainier shone like a beacon in the early morning light, despite a hint of wildfire haze in the air.
